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Travel Narrative

A GUIDE TO SOUTH AFRICA: CAPE TOWN AND JO'BURG

A couple of years ago, I was lucky enough to visit Johannesburg and Cape town. A trip I had always wanted to take, my mom and I visited South Africa for 12 jam-packed days, with stops at museums, cultural sites and institutions, and a three day safari to end it all. At the time, I was only 18, having just finished high school and on my way to college following the summer. This was a trip I had always dreamed of taking, and I was fortunate to have done this while still possible. As I write this, I’m reflecting not only on this trip, but the uncertain times we face currently (due to COVID-19). I’m not sure when traveling will be safe, and going forward, many things in the travel industry and worldwide are due for some much needed change once things do get back to normal.

Finding the time to reflect on this trip took time, but I’ve included what we did, including where we stayed and how we booked everything. Follow along below!

BOOK A TRAVEL AGENT?

In 2014, Instagram wasn’t what it is now. And while there were certainly travel bloggers, influencers and enthusiasts, 18 year-old me didn’t know/follow/even think I could become one of them. For this particular trip, my mom and I booked a travel company, Absolute Travel (I can no longer locate their website, I know this sounds #suss but promise they are a legit/experienced luxury travel company and think they might have gone out of business unfortunately!) We received an extensive itinerary and planned trip, including a tour guide who provided transportation and insights about the cities along the way.

Although this is typically not something I do today when I travel, it was helpful for my mom and I, especially when I was younger and less used to traveling. I highly recommend this route if you can afford it, as it definitely is not cheap, but does come with a lot of benefits such as a guided and specialized itinerary. On the other hand, I do remember feeling a little rushed and tired, as the days were jam-packed, with not enough down time to explore things that were not major tour sites. I think a good mix would be to book a company, if you can, for a couple of days, hitting the major tourist sites if you are interested during those days. Combine this with your own research and downtime to explore on your own, and this will definitely give you more of a balanced trip.

View of Table Mountain from our common room.

View of Table Mountain from our common room.

WHERE WE STAYED

Johanessburg- Our first night in SA, we stayed at the Peech Hotel. A boutique hotel, it was refreshing after the 14 hr flight (direct from Atlanta), and one of the most beautiful spaces I have stayed in while traveling. We stayed in the Garden Room, which had direct views to the pool below. Unfortunately, we visited SA in June, which is summer for us in America, but the beginning of winter in South Africa, so temperatures were a bit chilly, especially at night.

Cape town- A short plane ride from Johannesburg, we stayed at Treyovan Guest House. Wow. This place, again, was breathtaking, made even more so by the view of Table Mountain from the common room. As a traditional guest house, it was nice to be in a small setting, with only a couple of other guests. I found this one of my favorite parts about the trip (more on this later).

Garanga Safari Camp- No words to fully describe the feeling of being on a safari. Located in near Kruger National Park, another short plane ride from Cape town, Garanga Safari Camp has everything you want, and didn’t know you needed, on a safari trip. As I briefly mentioned earlier, the best part of this trip was connecting with other travelers (besides the safari itself!) The other group members on our safari were two sets of female friends, two from London and two from other parts of America, making it a small group that provided a more intimate experience. We became close friends during the trip, spending time together after dinner and breakfast, talking about the safari, life and everything else. Even though it was only three days, the sense of companionship was strong, and I still keep in touch with some of the other travelers to this day.

Garanga Safari Camp.

Garanga Safari Camp.

Garanga Safari Camp.

Garanga Safari Camp.

WHAT WE DID

Our travels throughout South Africa took us to Cape town, Jo’burg and Greater Makalali Private Nature Reserve, where the safari was located. With so much rich history in each city, we tried to see as many things as possible. Below, I’ve outlined some of the spots visited.

Jo’burg downtown and Soweto tour: We didn’t have too much time in Johannesburg, but visited HIllbrow and Braamfontein (two neighborhoods located further in the suburbs). In Soweto, a township, we visited Freedom Square and Nelson Mandela’s former home. Soweto is known historically as one of the first black neighborhoods/cities during apartheid, when blacks were separated from whites, and is short for South Western Townships. Today, the township is famous for its culture, ranging from museums, markets and homes, as well as the 1976 protests by young students against teaching Afrikaans in school. You can learn more about the history of Soweto here, and I highly suggest visiting while in Johannesburg.

What I felt was interesting about Jo’burg was its authenticity and strong history. In many parts of the city, it was possible to see the direct effect of apartheid that is still felt today. I saw this especially in downtown Jo’burg, where racial divides between those who live in the suburbs vs. the city is still apparent in terms of living situations and housing opportunities.

Cape Town: We spent a longer portion of the trip in Cape town (about four days) and I really enjoyed this city. While there, I suggest visiting Table Mountain, an iconic attraction in South Africa because of the flat plateau at the top. Visitors can hike, or choose to take the cable car to the top, with stunning views of the city and sea. It is also one of the 7 wonders of the world! Another site is Cape Point, where the point of the Atlantic and Indian Ocean are said to meet.

A must while in Cape Town is a visit to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned. A huge museum attraction in Cape Town, I found the tour educational and fascinating, as well as heartbreaking to see firsthand the conditions that many of the prisoners faced. The institution focuses on a mission of providing research, tourist development and guides to all who visit, and the research and prisoner stories available provided more insight on the history of apartheid and South Africa.

Cape town offers a diversity of cultures, residents, food, architecture and much more. Today, it is also famous for its art and design scene, as well as Tv and films that are shot there. I felt a connection to the land, especially when at Cape Point and the Capetown Peninsula, where the views of the ocean are unmatched.

View from Table Mountain.

View from Table Mountain.

Baby Taj at Cape Point!

Baby Taj at Cape Point!

Garanga Safari Camp: Although I explained some of the feelings I felt while on my first African safari above, I felt the need to talk more about the space itself. Safari’s are typically held in the morning and early evening, with mornings starting as early as 6:45. I loved being out there. While accompanied by knowledge trackers and guides, the Big Five experience was unmatched. We were able to see lions, elephants, zebras, and so much more. My favorite part was seeing a young rhino playing with his mom in the middle of the road, or when we took a walk through the bush, spying hippos in the water (who are in fact one of the most dangerous animals). Or, when I was about a sticks length away from a group of lions, or the same with a cheetah, who was relaxing in the sun. Being that close to such large and dangerous animals, existing in the same space, was eye opening, and an incredible experience. I couldn’t help but think how lucky I was to witness this firsthand.

Right before we saw hippos!

Right before we saw hippos!

I keep returning to this thought while I write this piece. As much as this piece is for those who have not traveled to South Africa to use as a beginning guide when planning their trip, it simultaneously became a resource for myself as well, serving as a tool to remember how special this trip was. Especially during this time, I find it more important than ever to remember the trips we were fortunate to take, the experiences we shared, and the people we met. I write about these memories fondly, and hope that you are able to plan a trip and use this guide to South Africa after this is all over. Whatever your reason for reading this today, I hoe you find comfort in my words and sharing the journeys and trips that have influenced who I am today.

Sunset over South African Safari

Sunset over South African Safari